How We’re Tackling Melasma: A Client Success Story
Melasma is a notoriously stubborn skin condition, often triggered by sun exposure, hormones, heat, and other internal factors. One of my clients has been experiencing melasma for years, and initially sought treatment with hydroquinone and tretinoin prescribed by her physician. However, many are unaware that hydroquinone, while effective in the short term, can lead to "rebound hyperpigmentation," where pigmentation darkens after discontinuation. This was the case when she came to me seeking a more sustainable, holistic solution.
To safely and effectively address her melasma, we discontinued the hydroquinone and tretinoin and embarked on a slow and steady journey using a mix of gentle, but potent treatments, and home skincare regimen overhaul. Below is a breakdown of what’s working well in her regimen, including the lifestyle factors we addressed to support her healing from the inside out.
Tranexamic Acid
What it is: Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine. Originally used to treat excessive blood loss, it has become a popular ingredient in skincare for its ability to lighten hyperpigmentation.
What it does: It works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production, making it particularly effective in treating melasma.
Benefits:
Reduces dark spots and hyperpigmentation
Fades discoloration from sun exposure
Helps even skin tone and texture
Why it’s essential: Tranexamic acid offers a gentle, effective approach to reducing melanin production without the irritation that stronger treatments might cause.
O2 Tox Spicules
What it is: O2 Tox spicules are microscopic marine silica needles that help stimulate skin regeneration and oxygenation.
What it does: These tiny spicules create microchannels in the skin, promoting oxygenation and enhancing the absorption of other active ingredients.
Benefits:
Boosts cellular turnover
Oxygenates and revitalizes the skin
Enhances the absorption of active ingredients
Why it’s essential: O2 Tox spicules help improve the efficacy of melasma treatments by allowing deeper penetration of products, while supporting skin renewal.
AHA + LHA Acid Blend
What it is: AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) are water-soluble acids that exfoliate the skin's surface, while LHAs (lipohydroxy acids) are oil-soluble and penetrate deeper into the pores.
What it does: Together, this acid blend gently exfoliates and renews the skin, reducing hyperpigmentation over time without causing irritation.
Benefits:
Smooths skin texture
Brightens skin tone
Encourages cellular turnover
Why it’s essential: Gentle exfoliation is key to gradually lightening melasma while minimizing the risk of further irritation or darkening.
Glutathione
What it is: Glutathione is a powerful antioxidant naturally produced in the body that neutralizes free radicals and helps prevent cellular damage.
What it does: In skincare, glutathione helps to lighten hyperpigmentation and protect the skin from environmental stressors that exacerbate melasma.
Benefits:
Brightens skin tone
Reduces dark spots
Provides antioxidant protection
Why it’s essential: Glutathione works to prevent the damage that leads to hyperpigmentation, making it a key part of a melasma-fighting regimen.
Beta Glucan
What it is: Beta glucan is a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in oats and other sources, known for its soothing and hydrating properties.
What it does: It calms inflammation, supports the skin barrier, and enhances hydration—key factors in treating melasma without irritation.
Benefits:
Reduces redness and inflammation
Strengthens the skin’s barrier
Hydrates and plumps the skin
Why it’s essential: Beta glucan keeps skin calm and balanced, making it less likely to react negatively to environmental or internal triggers that worsen melasma.
Niacinamide
What it is: Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is a versatile ingredient that improves skin barrier function, evens skin tone, and reduces inflammation.
What it does: It reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation and redness while strengthening the skin’s natural defenses.
Benefits:
Brightens skin and reduces dark spots
Calms redness and irritation
Regulates oil production and minimizes pores
Why it’s essential: Niacinamide is gentle enough for sensitive skin, making it an ideal partner in any treatment plan targeting melasma.
Hale & Hush Retinal (Retinaldehyde) Serum
What it is: Retinaldehyde is a form of vitamin A (retinoid), and is one step closer to the active form of retinoic acid than retinol, making it more effective while still being gentle.
What it does: Retinaldehyde speeds up cellular turnover and helps fade pigmentation by stimulating collagen production and encouraging the exfoliation of old, pigmented cells.
Benefits:
Speeds up skin renewal
Fades dark spots and improves texture
Stimulates collagen for smoother, firmer skin
Why it’s essential: Retinaldehyde is perfect for sensitive skin prone to melasma because it delivers retinoid benefits without the irritation that stronger retinoids can cause.
Mandelic Acid
What it is: Mandelic acid is an AHA derived from bitter almonds. It has larger molecules than glycolic acid, making it less likely to cause irritation while still offering effective exfoliation.
What it does: It exfoliates the top layers of skin, promoting cellular turnover, fading dark spots, and improving overall skin tone.
Benefits:
Gently exfoliates and brightens skin
Fades pigmentation and dark spots
Suitable for sensitive skin
Why it’s essential: Mandelic acid is ideal for treating melasma because it works gradually and gently to exfoliate, without causing the irritation that can lead to further darkening.
The Internal and Hormonal Aspect of Melasma
Melasma isn’t just a surface-level condition. Hormones, particularly estrogen, play a significant role in triggering and exacerbating melasma. This makes it crucial to consider internal health when treating the skin. Hormonal fluctuations caused by pregnancy, birth control, or stress can intensify melasma, as can environmental factors like heat. Even small lifestyle changes like taking a hot shower or cleansing with hot water can trigger melasma by increasing skin temperature and inflammation. We’ve addressed this by advising cooler cleansing routines and being mindful of heat exposure.
Supporting Internal Health: The Role of Liver Health
While topical treatments are key, internal health can’t be ignored. The liver plays an important role in metabolizing hormones and detoxifying the body, which is why some believe that supporting liver health may help manage melasma. Milk thistle, a powerful herb known for its liver-cleansing properties, is one potential supplement that might be worth considering. However, it’s important to note that no medical claims can be made regarding its efficacy for melasma.
Medical Disclaimer: While a healthy liver can support overall wellness, please consult a healthcare professional before starting any new supplement regimen, especially for treating melasma or other skin conditions.
Consistency is Key
When treating melasma, patience is essential. Your skin operates on a 28-30 day cycle, meaning it takes time to see results. Consistent care, both topically and internally, is necessary to achieve long-lasting improvement. Our client has already seen great progress after two months, but results continue to build over time.
Ready to Start Your Journey?
Melasma can be frustrating, but with the right care, progress is possible! If you're ready to develop a personalized skincare plan that addresses your unique needs, I’d love to help.
Ready to get started? Book a free consultation today to discuss your skincare goals and explore the treatments and products that are best for you!